There are lots of ways to fall in love with Berlin, but for me it was when I happened upon Kleingartenverein Kissingen, it's one of Berlin's Gartenkolonien. These are supersized public gardens where residents don't just keep plots for kitchen gardens, but build out little cabins with outdoor picnic areas often with hammocks strung between trees. Officially they're Kleingärten, "small gardens," and Berlin has something like 71,000 of them. They're a holdover from the city's nineteenth-century Armengärten movement "gardens for the poor" meant to feed everyone, no matter how little they had. Over time the plots clustered into what became known as Laubenkolonien, colonies of garden huts.
The people I met there told me gardens allotments are coveted with long waiting lists and often passed down within families. Even though many have little houses people are strictly forbidden from living there full-time — they're for weekends and long summer evenings only. Wander in on a weekend, and they're part social club, part ecological refuge, part time travel.
If you find yourself in Berlin, go seek them out, you won’t be sad.
















Twombly once famously said that he would sit thinking for a few hours before making a painting in 15 minutes.
He didn’t talk much about his work (the word “enigmatic” is often used to describe him), but people in his circle clearly adored him and always mentioned his intellect. If you’ve ever done deep dives on Twombly, you might have noticed that stories about him often featured unusually good photography. 

Six months later he would return with amazing homemade electronics. His Wybornator device was a modem that that ran 4x the speed of any modem we could buy and allowed us to dial anywhere in the world for free. We were pretty sure he was in the CIA (or working for the Russians… we could never decide). 










